Friday, 20 January 2012

Weilberg 2006

I don't have many GGs in stock chez Jones, but the ones I do are nearly all from Weingut Pfeffingen. I have two bottles left of the 2005 version, and that is developing nicely and probably near or at its zenith. Pfeffingen gave me the chance to pre-order six bottles of the 2006 vintage when it was released. Despite the questionable vintage, I jumped at the chance. The bottle pictured here is now the fourth of the six I bought back then.

Weingut Pfeffingen, Weilberg GG 2006, Riesling trocken, Pfalz, Germany
Yes, the 2006 vintage was a bit of disaster in the Pfalz - rotting set in early, strict selection was necessary, etc. etc. However, I don't have many quibbles with this wine.

Vinified in stainless steel, so a totally different style to the Knipser. Yet this is thick, viscous gloop in comparison. Super ripe in keeping with the hothouse weather we all saw at the World Cup that year. This has a bright yellow-straw hue and is initially all herbal, piquant and honeyed lemon on the nose. Then quince and apricot take over.

Sweet fruit of the aforementioned varieties on the palate, with other exotic notes. There is something there that reminds me of multi-vitamin juice. Super ripe with great density and substance; this envelops everything including the 13.5% alcohol. There are maybe some malty hints, but they lend a rich, earthy character. As I say, it's quite a thick juice with lots of succulence. The acidity is also quite rounded. But despite its weight, this wine is still very balanced. The finish is lovely and long.

Dud vintage or not, I won't be opening the final two bottles of this in a hurry. I think it could even do with a year or two extra cellaring to shed some of its adolescent puppy fat and gain more profile.

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