Müller-Thurgau has a bad name for itself. Which is why its swish modern synonym "Rivaner" was rolled out some time at the turn of the century. The cunning Swiss were on to a winner from the offset, calling it "Riesling x Sylvaner" [sic].It appears, though, that the best German examples of said grape continue to go by the good old "M-T" moniker.
Weingut Franz Keller, Oberbergener Bassgeige, Müller-Thurgau, 2010, Baden, Germany
There is no mention of trocken on the label, just 2.5 g/l of RS and 12% abv. Dry by nature then, if not by name.
Clear, grey straw in appearance with some miniscule bubbles that cling to the top of the liquid. On the nose, freshly cut chives and some minerally notes, dare I say. Very refreshing on entry and very dry - again with subtle hints of something green and freshly cut. Every so slightly caramelly on the finish according to my moderately trained palate. The overall impression is freshness, but with a level of seriousness I've barely encountered in a Müller-Thurgau. Not too dissimilar in character to a Weissburgunder for the same price. According to the winery, this wine is the perfect accompaniment to oysters.
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