Monday, 7 June 2010

More unusual offerings from Efringen

Although maybe better known for his reds (Pinot Noir, Syrah), Hanspeter Ziereisen's whites from the village of Efringen-Kirchen deserve more than just a passing mention. This wine is a case in point.

Weingut Ziereisen, Grauer Burgunder, Jaspis Alte Reben unfiltriert, 2007
From 50-year old vines, hence the "Alte Reben" moniker. As recommended on the back label (see below), I decanted this first. I then left well alone for over an hour before serving it for dinner.

The appearance is a lovely pale gold yet quite cloudy. "Morning urine," was my better half's strictly tongue-in-cheek description. Such is the visual effect, I suppose, when you do without filtration during the vinification process! However, don't let this put you off, because the wine itself is extremely worthwhile. Showing off spice, chalk and vanilla, the nose is complex and multi-layered. This translates on to a palate showing depth, fullness and persistence, and a lovely wild, untamed character. The oak notes are well integrated. While showing some richness, the wine is well balanced and refreshing. Not much fruit to speak of, but you'd hardly mourn its absence amid the other myriad sensations. Lovely.

Hard to compare with any other wine, let alone any other Pinot Gris, I've ever had.

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