Wednesday, 2 June 2010

Basel's favourite German wine

The following wine was covered a year ago in my previous blog, but deserves another airing due to its propensity to delight and confound in equal measure.

Only the other week, the latest vintage was delivered to Basel's city hall amid a certain degree of ceremonial pomp and circumstance. For another year, Isteiner Kirchberg will be the wine of choice served at all of Basel's civic receptions.

Bezirkskellerei Markgräflerland, Isteiner Kirchberg Gutedel trocken "Exklusiv" QbA 2009, Baden
And I swear this wine gets better and better each year. The chalky Kirchberg terroir is, for an initial moment, quite apparent on the nose. Lovely, fresh "grapey" aromas follow, and I can also detect hints of apricot. On the second evening, I get a momentary blast of cooked apple after opening, but this dissipates, giving way to the same grapey character and some lingering minerality. On the palate, elegance abounds. The acidity is low - as with most Gutedels - and the (white) fruit flavours are of the sweet, cooked variety. Quite complex for a wine under 5 euro. Another contender for summer sipping this year. One of Jenny's favourites, too.

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