Friday, 16 April 2010

Riesling from the Südpfalz

Although the Südliche Weinstraße district of the Pfalz is one of the most dynamic wine-growing areas in Germany, my vinous experiences of this region have, to date, been somewhat limited. Due to my work experience way back in the 90s in Deidesheim, I've always seemed to concentrate more on what was going on in the Mittelhaardt district. This is almost criminal, what with all the hotshots of the German wine scene who hail from the beautiful Südpfalz: Rebholz, Becker, Wehrheim, Bernhart, Siener, Meßmer et al. Hopefully, I can rectify this situation.

Weingut Siener, Riesling vom Rotliegenden 2008, Pfalz
Ok, I admit: I chose this on the back of the fantastic points score this received in the annual "Bible" of German wine, the Gault Millau Weinguide. I wouldn't normally do this, but when the wine in question costs as little EUR 8 from an online retailer, it would be silly of me to look a gift horse in the mouth. Even if it disappoints, it wouldn't leave too much of a hole in my wallet - I thought.

What impressed me about this wine was its consistency of aroma and flavour from start to finish. By this, I mean: from Wednesday evening when it was opened, to Thursday evening after almost 24 hours in the fridge. The wine's appearance is a lovely yellow-straw hue. On the nose, herbal aromas giving way to apricot undertones. The palate is understated, medium-bodied and elegant. As dry as a pork scratching, but with notes of stone fruit and lime, and - with some air - maybe even blackcurrant. Throughout the mid-palate and finish, the impression is one of fine consistency and persistency. While maybe not as complex as, say, your average Großes Gewächs, this wine has pedigree in abundance. The question of whether it deserves its 90-point score from Gault Millau is neither here nor there.

[Edit: The "Rotliegendem" in the wine's title refers to the type of soil.]

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