Saturday, 10 April 2010

An old friend

Further to a recent post of mine about the ageability of dry Riesling, I thought it was time again to try an old favourite from the Fuhrmann-Eymael family in the Pfalz.

The Pfeffingen estate is well-known for their Scheurebe - a vastly underrated white varietal whose typical flavour profile is often dominated by blackcurrant and grapefruit aromas. Pfeffingen's sweet Scheurebes are arguably among the best in the world, their Spätleses also making for fine accompaniments to Asian or Pac-Rim cuisine.

However, dry Riesling also plays a prominent role in the Pfeffingen portfolio, the terroirs of the Herrenberg and Weilberg "grand cru" vineyards of Ungstein providing the raw material for the estate's "GG" wines.

Weingut Pfeffingen, Riesling, Weilberg Grosses Gewächs 2005, Pfalz
Light gold-yellow in appearance, the nose shows an initial douse of petrol that borders on paint, followed by spice, peach and animally hints with a savoury, almost red forest fruit character. On the palate, the impression is an extremely complex one, showing abundant spice and a pleasant softness in texture. Although legally trocken (in 51 states..), the amount of residual fructose in this one was near the statutory "ceiling" after vinification. Thanks to a few years' ageing, any sensory sweetness that might have originally been present in this wine has elegantly withdrawn to the background behind the ripeness of the acidity and extract, leaving a pretty dry and long finish. A fine wine in all senses of the word.

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