Stodden

My first-hand tasting experience of the Ahr region is minimal, yet years of reading wine forums and blogs have taught me via second-hand means that, of all the Ahr's top reds, Jean Stodden's Pinot Noirs are perhaps the least approachable in their youth. In the best Burgundy tradition, his are wines built for the duration. It was with this in mind that I approached the following wine with more than a hint of trepidation.

Weingut Jean Stodden, Spätburgunder JS trocken 2007, Ahr, Germany
Pretty conventional ruby in appearance - nothing to fear so far. Raspberry and cherry on the nose, followed by a smell that reminds me of peas. The whiff is quite distinct. I wonder whether other Spätburgunders grown on slate have this feature? Quite perfumed in a feminine way with liquorice and chocolate emerging on the second day. Aromatic yet firm on the palate. Although the tannins are slightly drying and there is some warmth from the alcohol, this wine is otherwise quite cool, elegant and silky in texture. A nice vein of sour cherry acidity underlines this impression. The finish is long.

In short, this is impressive. The state of the tannins leads me to suspect that a few more years' cellaring would do no harm, but there is nothing to fear now.