Another one from Stachel now, whose wines I have touched upon recently.
Weingut Erich Stachel, Riesling trocken "Alte Reben" 2009, Pfalz, Germany
Inconspicuous pale straw in appearance, but the nose is more expressive. The aromas remind me of minerals, lime, herbs (rosemary), grapefruit and - I know this will sound quite random - Kendal Mint Cake. I'm sure that Erich Stachel, a keen mountaineer, would appreciate Kendal Mint Cake. All these components are quite fleeting and change with each sniff.
On the palate, refreshing ripe acidity is balanced out by minerally notes. After a day, some slightly exotic fruit notes emerge, but, on the whole, the fruit influence is minimal. The finish is of medium length.
This wine has a pure, unadulterated personality. While not earth-shatteringly complex, it does thrive on its non-fruit notes and mouthfeel, and offers plenty of interest. The vines, Herr Stachel told me, really are quite old. You can imagine their roots digging deep into the ground for the myriad nutrients that give this Riesling a certain depth of character that, in conclusion, is probably more evident on the nose than on the palate.
Saturday, 31 March 2012
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