Some "Tokay"

Not of the Hungarian variety, but from Alsace. To avoid confusion with the sweet speciality of the Magyars, "Tokay" was banished as a term for Alsace Pinot Gris just a few years ago. Which is a pity, as "Tokay-Pinot Gris" always had a nice ring to it, I thought.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Pinot Gris Calcaire 2007, Alsace
The first from the six bottles bought at the Humbrecht/Ziereisen tasting. Make no mistake, this has oomph.

A complex bazaar of oriental spice and sweet fruit on the nose. There is indeed a minerality, too, redolent of the calcareous soil (from vines that were planted in 1988 and 1992 in the Clos Windsbuhl plot in Hunawihr). On the palate, it reverberates with lusciousness, though a touch of acidity helps to firm things up nicely. This has so many nuances - you want to come back to it again and again. The 14.6% alcohol (even with 29 g/l of residual sugar) is lifted up gently over a wall of complexity. You hardly notice it. And the finish is long. Blimey.