Flying Dutchman

I love German Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) - almost as much as I love German Riesling. Thankfully, the rest of the world is relatively oblivious to its merits. It remains a well-guarded secret - and long may it remain so.

Recently - and on my birthday, no less - my girl-friend and I had the rare pleasure and privilege of trying something new and wonderful: the 2004 Pinot Noir SD by Weingut Duijn from Bühl in Baden. Now, I'd already read a bit about the wines of Jacob Duijn, a Dutchman who entered the winemaking profession as a relative latecomer, but had tasted none of his wines to date.

In my book, this is how all red wines should be. Elegantly structured and profound - the "old world" European antidote to all those thick, oaky, alcoholic fruit bombs. I wish I'd taken notes for a change. I could start with the word "savoury", but that barely begins to describe it. Everything is where it should be. Certainly one of the best pinot noirs I've ever had. And definitely not everyday fare. The rack of lamb we ate with it went perfectly.