Domaine Nussbaumer

Domaine Nussbaumer is probably the best-known wine estate in the Basel area on the Swiss side of the border. I've come across their wines a couple of times at the annual Wymäss and was suitably impressed. Based in the village of Aesch (pronounced in Basel as a nasally "Aaaash!"), their range of wines emcompasses three red and five white varietals, including Räuschling, a little-known grape grown only in pockets of German-speaking Switzerland. The business also includes a restaurant.

Vineyards include the south-facing Klus in Aesch, which is the main Nussbaumer holding. There are also some smaller holdings: Arlesheim Schlossberg and Flüh Landskron - the latter situated literally a stone's throw from France (see my previous blog entry).

I recently tried the following Nussbaumer wine:

Domaine Nussbaumer, Pinot Noir Cuvée Spéciale, Aesch Klus, 2008
Ruby red in appearance with pale, watery edges. Spicy, almost Christmas cake aromas. After time in the decanter, it opens up into lovely marzipan and earthy notes. Minimal fruit but earthy on the palate. The acidic mouthfeel is quite edgy and stringent, and not would you expect after it being such a shower on the nose. The wine still tastes a bit harsh even hours later. Slightly disappointing, but maybe it needs more time to balance out. The litre red from Blankenhorn was more forgiving. However, maybe I should give this the benefit of the doubt until I try more Nussbaumer wines. Price: a little under CHF 19 (this is Switzerland, after all).

Flüh Landskron

Photos from our Sunday walk yesterday. A 30-minute tram ride away from Basel. The Flüh Landskron vineyard lies half in Switzerland, half in France. Landskron, the castle at the top, is situated in France.

Carbon footprint

Part of the "Schlipf" vineyard from which German Claus Schneider makes his excellent wines also stretches into the Basel suburb of Riehen on the Swiss side of the border. There's even a little winery situated just on the Swiss of the hill.

What's less well known, however, is Grenzacher Hornfelsen, a tiny and steep 1.7-hectare parcel of vines that overlooks the Rhine. It is Baden's most southerly vineyard, situated in a curious enclave almost surrounded by Swiss territory. The chemical works of Birsfelden (CH) are located on the other side of the Rhine, while downtown Basel is but a short bus ride away to the west.

I've always been fascinated by this small patch of land, and not only marvelled at its incongruous setting but also wondered why anyone in their right mind would be prepared to grow wine there and still make a profit, given that all the fruit is "merely" sent to the local cooperative for vinification. Apparently, though, there is someone out there willing to do just that.

Interestingly, Hornfelsen used to be a chalk quarry, with rocks transported from there in the medieval times to help in the construction of buildings in Basel. This probably helps explain its particular suitability as a vineyard. Not surprising, also, that Spätburgunder is the prominent varietal grown there, in addition to crossings Cabernet Carol and Cabernet Carbon. It's these three varietals which were used make the following wine:

Bezirkskellerei Markgräflerland, Grenzacher Hornfelsen Rotwein trocken 2007
Costing EUR 9.99, this is a notch more expensive than most of the reds made at that this Efringen-based coop. The big question for me was whether this reflected both the work that went into tending the vines and the quality of the wine itself.

On appearance, a lovely deep ruby red. Darker than your normal Pinot Noir. On the nose, brambly fruit. There is some blackberry in there as well, which maybe belies the Cabernet Sauvignon origins of one of this wine's components, Cabernet Carbon. On the palate, it's like Spätburgunder with shoulder pads. In fact, any overt Pinot characteristics are minimal and smothered by some very up-front primary dark fruit aromas. Nothing that delicate or complex about it, but I could imagine this wine being a real crowd-pleaser. Indeed, the more I think about it, this reminds me uncannily of Zinfandel. I don't know whether that's a compliment, but I'll leave you to make your own conclusion.

If I were a nit-picker, maybe I would want something more complex than just "clean" and "well made" for that price, but it's certainly very quaffable and - over a period of four days (I was a good boy this time and drank in moderation) - it become more and more enjoyable.

When a draw feels like a win

What other sporting contest can last for five days, end in a draw but still captivate millions of people? Test cricket, of course.

As an Englishman, it's always good to get one over the South Africans in any sport, so today was especially sweet.

Boom boom...

Boris Becker's home town of Leimen is situated just to the south of Heidelberg. On our recent trip up Heidelberg, I purchased a bottle by Clauer (see previous entry) and one by Seeger of Leimen which cost EUR 8.90. Let's see if this is as bombastic as a Becker serve...

Weingut Seeger, Blauer Spätburgunder trocken 2008, Baden
Pale Pinot appearance. Candied cherry on the nose with quite overbearing oak on nose and palate, meaning that the effect is very dry and almost too "sawdusty" for my liking. Some complexity there, but the finish also feels rather alcoholic, to be honest. Finished off today, 24 hours after opening, it seems to have taken on a slightly more savoury aspect, with hints of bitter chocolate, suggesting that further cellaring (or, failing that, decanting) would be a good idea. The alcohol seems to have bedded in a bit. In conclusion, not bombastic as such - though that's a good thing. I think the wine is fairly good value for the price. However, the oak is a touch too prominent for my taste, seemingly overpowering all else - which is a shame.

Wild thing

Georg Breuer, Sauvage Riesling trocken 2006, Rheingau
The first time I've tried a Rheingau in a long time. Georg Breuer's "basic" dry Riesling - no vineyard or village name given. Consumed over three days, this held its form throughout. On the nose: petrol, lime, then hints of something more tropical. Minerally on the palate - maybe flinty. The mouthfeel is quite puckering. There is, indeed, a certain untamed character here. Bone dry but "only" 11.5% alcohol; quite pithy citrus notes, which might not be to everyone's taste, but not shrill at all. It went well with fish at lunch on New Year's Eve.* A good wine.

* Only one glass, mind (because of the revelries later).

From the rocks

Happy New Year. I hope it's a good one for everybody.

The first post for 2010 concerns a special wine that was drunk with my family back home in the UK over Christmas.
Weingut Keller, Riesling "Von der Fels" 2008
Much has been written about Klaus-Peter Keller and his famous wines from what, ostensibly, would appear to be the pretty unremarkable hinterland of Rheinhessen. His "G-Max" is regarded as one of the best dry Rieslings in the world, if not the best. Mortals like you and I can but dream of tasting such wines. Coming from a coastal town near Blackpool, it's also hard not to think of a certain rollercoaster at the Pleasure Beach whenever I read the name G-Max, but I digress.

This was the first ever Keller wine I'd tried, and it didn't disappoint. No tasting notes as such here. However, drunk with our starter of mussel soup, "Von der Fels" (or "From the rocks") was a winner on our Christmas table. Of great purity and focus, with a profound mineral core, it gradually opened up in the glass and complimented the soup perfectly. I wish the glass had gone on for ever. The mind boggles as to what the Keller grand crus are like.