Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Baden vs Pfalz (entry-level Weissburgunder)

This was just a little bit of fun. What the following two wines have in common is that they were both made by organic producers and from the same grape, Weissburgunder (or Pinot Blanc). They are also similarly priced. I bought the one from Baden at a wine shop just over the border in Germany, and the one from the Pfalz at a German supermarket a couple of Saturdays ago. The former cost me a little under nine euros, the latter just under seven (the cellar-door prices are €8 and €5.70 respectively).

Firstly, the Pfalz.

Weingut Wöhrle, Bockenheimer Grafenstück Weißer Burgunder trocken 2013, Pfalz
The 1920s-style typeface on the label is quite elegant. The thin shape of the bottle accentuates this impression.

Straw coloured. Quite reticent on the nose, with vegetative and stalky suggestions. Some smokey notes emerge over time. Clean and refreshing on the palate. Yellow apple and a touch of handcream. There is a slight bitterness on the finish which, in itself, can be no bad thing ... in a Riesling. The wine's lower acidity means this particular characteristic stands out more. Overall, quite straightforward but with a slight chewy glaze that lends some weight. Alcohol is 12.5 percent.

Weingut Rieger, Weißer Burgunder trocken 2013, Baden
Very pale straw in appearance. Paler than its cousin from the Pfalz. Shouldn't it be the other way round? Much more expressive on the nose than its counterpart. Blossomy notes, a whiff of apricots, honeysuckle. Even hints of sour cream. Pure, bone dry and minerally on the palate. Yellow apple and floral hints. Virtually no signs of any bitterness. Overall, this wine is more "floral" and open than its Pfalz counterpart. Fresher and lighter too, weighing in at 12 alcohol.

Any conclusions? Well, I enjoyed the latter wine more than the former wine. And this is no April Fool, but no one should take the above match-up too seriously.

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