Three stars

Now for something faintly Burgundian from the Kaiserstuhl. This is the second of two bottles, the first having been opened almost four years ago.

Weingut Reinhold & Cornelia Schneider, Weißer Burgunder Spätlese trocken *** 2009, Baden
Pale golden yellow with greenish gold-leaf glints. Quite a savoury vegetative smell of the root variety (fennel? parsnip? potato mash?) along with some woody scents. Peachy notes on the first day, but these dissipate 24 hours later. Fairly dense and concentrated. A little salty with slightly waxy suggestions.

These is virtually translated like-for-like on the palate. Still fresh despite the evident ripeness of the vintage. This wine has a medium to full body but remains very lean, minerally and athletic, with a lingering savoury aftertaste. Impressive and pretty much ready to drink.