Thursday, 25 September 2014


Edouard Graf is a one-time customer of mine who runs a gourmet restaurant on the shores of Lake Zurich and has also launched his own range of wine glasses under the pseudonym "Edi the Nose". In the past, he has also collaborated with winemakers to produce his own wines that are now served at his restaurant or available via his online shop. This is one such specimen:

"PrimaNose" DOC 2006, Edi the Nose, Azienda Agricola La Fusina, Langhe Rosso, Piedmont
This is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera and 5% Dogliani. Almost opaque, dark garnet in appearance. Black olives, sultanas and black forest fruit with a hint of red berries. Over the course of three evenings, an iron, blood-like note also emerges.

Not surprisingly, given the presence of Nebbiolo and Barbera, this wine has plenty of acidity on the palate. This and the tannins generate quite a "bite" that is a tad astringent a first but then becomes pleasantly mouthwatering as the hours (and days) go by. A slight sensation of sweetness and a certain mellowness in the mouth help accentuate this. Full bodied and powerful, but elegant. The 14 percent alcohol is well masked by the overall freshness. The finish is long. After eight years, this wine is still a relative spring chicken, but is now beginning to shed some of its initial sharpness. Great stuff.

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