Despite being priced just on the wrong side of 10 euros, Philipp Wittmann's dry estate Riesling sells like hot cakes. I can tell why.
Weingut Wittmann, Riesling trocken 2012, Rheinhessen, Germany
This may be Wittmann's basic offering, but there is nothing basic about the colour. It has a very healthy yellowy tinge. No fruit shortage on the nose either: mostly apricot, some peach and a few exotic notes come to the fore. Initially, dry herbs show through, though these gradually retreat behind the fruit. Again, crystal-clear yellowish fruit coupled with a pleasantly dry saltiness on the palate. Slight caramel hints, too. The acidity is fresh but well balanced. The fruit generates considerable succulence. Certainly, this is more complex than your average estate wine – and some more prestigious wines from other wineries I could think of. My only quibble concerns its surprisingly short finish. However, this is hard to top in the Gutswein bracket.
Monday, 19 May 2014
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