Philippi Pinot Noir 2001

Bernd Philippi made a name for himself for his world-class dry Rieslings from the Kallstadter Saumagen vineyard named after an original Pfälzer delicacy. His Pinots Noirs play more of a secondary, niche role, but the temptation of a bottle of 2001 vintage was too great for me to resist.

Weingut Köhler-Ruprecht, Pinot Noir "Philippi" 2001, Pfalz, Germany
Dark ruby with a light brownish rim. As almost expected from a wine of this age, mushroomy notes of autumnal undergrowth come to the fore. Sweet strawberry and cherry with a complex whiff that reminds me partly of something ferrous and partly of something more savoury (think meaty or "animally"). There is also a slightly ethereal greenish note, but overall the effect is maybe a little darker than some other Pinots I've recently tried.

The savoury theme continues on the palate with the tannins adding a slight astringency and grip. While the wine exhibits undoubted complexity, its personality is also a touch rustic (or "unaffected", shall we say). Less of the cool elegance and more of something borne of the farmyard with wellies on... Nevertheless, this Spätburgunder is very structured and balanced - thanks not least to the sweet dark red fruit notes that soften the mouthfeel at the end. Bought for 21 euros at a wine shop in Freiburg, and good value for that given the age and the quality - even though I suspect at least another five years of being left alone would do it no harm at all.