Monday, 7 January 2013

Grauburgunder from Rheinhessen

A few months ago, I bought four Grauburgunder wines from four different producers. Three of them, from Kuhn, Knipser and Klaus-Peter Keller respectively, were priced between EUR 11 and 12; I've already covered Philipp Kuhn's GB. The fourth, from Friedrich Becker, cost 15 euros and shall be saved for last.

Weingut Keller, Grauer Burgunder trocken 2011, Rheinhessen, Germany
Straw-coloured in the glass, this tickles the nose with a whiff of pumpkin soup and melted butter. Twenty-four hours later, the aromas are more reminiscent of starfruit with slightly citrusy, almost orangey hints. However, the pumpkin notes subtlely re-emerge as the wine increases in temperature.

Clean with a medium body on the palate. The orange and mild citrus theme continues on the back of a surprisingly refreshing spine of acidity. The mouthfeel is cool yet succulent. After a while, the fruit notes retreat more into the background. I am sure that Klaus-Peter Keller harvested while the grapes were at the perfect point of ripeness but not overcooked. The result is a very appetising wine with a certain understated elegance. On the whole, I prefer it slightly to the more honeyed, smoky effort from Philipp Kuhn.

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