Schneider's Kirchenstück

Set back a good few miles away from the gentle eastern slopes of the Mittelhaardt, the vineyards around Ellerstadt in the Pfalz are pretty much as flat as a die. However, this hasn't stopped Markus Schneider from raising eyebrows in recent years through both his winemaking and marketing - the latter reminding me of Hilliger in Burgenland, Austria. He also benefits from owning blocks on the edge of the forest, in vineyards such as Dürkheimer Feuerberg. The following wine comes from the river plain, however.

Weingut Schneider, Ellerstadter Kirchenstück Riesling trocken 2006, Pfalz
This was last tasted a couple of years ago when it had a rather odd, unfathomable whiff. After much airing this time around, this characteristic remains. In truth, it's hard to describe. Not cork taint, I hasten to add, but not entirely convincing either. Other than that, quite pungent, spicy aromas. Peach as well, which carries over to the palate. There is plenty of substance and pleasant juice there, but the component parts seem rather disparate. All "arms and legs", as it were. Weighing in at 13.5% alcohol, this dry Riesling shows a little too much "heat" for my liking. There is a noticeable bitterness on the finish which also detracts in my view. Maybe the result of what was a problematic vintage? I have one more bottle of this, and I think I will open it sooner rather than later.

The bottle label, on the other hand, is very snazzy - plus you can test your eyesight with it like at the optician's.