Philippi Pinot Noir 2001

Bernd Philippi made a name for himself for his world-class dry Rieslings from the Kallstadter Saumagen vineyard named after an original Pfälzer delicacy. His Pinots Noirs play more of a secondary, niche role, but the temptation of a bottle of 2001 vintage was too great for me to resist.

Weingut Köhler-Ruprecht, Pinot Noir "Philippi" 2001, Pfalz, Germany
Dark ruby with a light brownish rim. As almost expected from a wine of this age, mushroomy notes of autumnal undergrowth come to the fore. Sweet strawberry and cherry with a complex whiff that reminds me partly of something ferrous and partly of something more savoury (think meaty or "animally"). There is also a slightly ethereal greenish note, but overall the effect is maybe a little darker than some other Pinots I've recently tried.

The savoury theme continues on the palate with the tannins adding a slight astringency and grip. While the wine exhibits undoubted complexity, its personality is also a touch rustic (or "unaffected", shall we say). Less of the cool elegance and more of something borne of the farmyard with wellies on... Nevertheless, this Spätburgunder is very structured and balanced - thanks not least to the sweet dark red fruit notes that soften the mouthfeel at the end. Bought for 21 euros at a wine shop in Freiburg, and good value for that given the age and the quality - even though I suspect at least another five years of being left alone would do it no harm at all.

Brücke Spätlese 2003

This went well with homemade Masala curry but was also a treat on its own.

Weingut Dönnhoff, Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2003, Nahe, Germany
Light shimmering gold. Showing much less age in appearance than the Keller Spätlese. Clean as a whistle if a little shy on the nose. With more air, wax, spice and creamy notes emerge, but no fruit as such. The palate is more expressive. Creamy and immaculate with serious substance. If it were human, this wine would have a supple physique. There is a lovely sweetness but the acidic backbone hits home midway through. Great balance. Then it's a story of candied citrus and cream on what is an impressively long finish.

Slightly embarrassing to say, but this was my first Dönnhoff wine ever. This, an older wine in Helmut's flagship disciple, was nevertheless the best possible introduction, I daresay.

Hubacker Spätlese 2000

On our wedding anniversary last week, my wife and I went to Freiburg to eat some sushi and then go shopping for some household items. The latter activity wasn't necessarily my idea, but afterwards I was allowed to browse around a wine shop stocking an excellent collection of German wines, young and old. For a few minutes, I was as wide-eyed as a boy in a sweet shop...

Despite the fabulous array of dry German Rieslings on show, I opted for two aged Riesling Spätleses and a 12-year-old Pinot Noir. This is one of the Rieslings.

Weingut Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Spätlese 2000, Rheinhessen, Germany
Beautiful deep golden with an amber tinge. It's obvious that this has a few years under its belt. On the nose, it has a wonderful beeswax aroma along with honey, caramel and a slightly savoury, buttery whiff. Clear on the palate with honey and wax. Despite only having 7.5% alcohol, this is far from the sugary gloop that certain people would have you believe (usually those who think they just like "trocken" and nothing else). Its silky body feels almost weightless in the mouth. This is thanks to the acidity which just about keeps the lusciousness in check and contributes to what is basically a dry-tasting, complex finish that still manages to remind me of caramel and, specifically, of those Highland Toffee bars I used to enjoy as a child. It is a sensation that lingers in the mouth for a good couple of minutes.

It's great to try older Spätleses. They remind me of when I first got into German Riesling.

Lügle reloaded

I opened the first of two bottles of this in early 2010, and the second last Sunday. The fact that it had been laid down for almost four years in total had done it no harm at all. On the contrary...

Weingut Ziereisen, Weissburgunder "Lügle" 2007, Baden
"Lügle" is the name of the specific plot of vines in which this wine was grown, although Efringer Ölberg is the official generic name for the vineyard in which this plot is located.

Dull golden straw in colour (actually a bit like brass, come to think of it). Aromas of freshly cut pineapple, then some melon and lemon curd. Maybe some red berries too. Expressive with vanilla hints that are well-integrated and enhance complexity. These then bring out an additional animally whiff, delicate citrus and some dried leafy notes. On the palate, pineapple and maybe some apricot to begin with. An intensely salty tang then takes over midway though. This positively cuts through the fruit, although some bright and harmonious savoury hints linger throughout. The saline sensation continues into a long and satisfyingly complex finish.

I opened this a good four or five hours before trying it with dinner but, considering the intense smell I caught when sniffing from the bottle immediately after pulling the cork, I suspect the wine would also have showed well right from the off.

Weil Riesling trocken 2012

The wines of Weingut Robert Weil are totally new ground for me. This is the winery's entry-level dry Riesling.

Weingut Robert Weil, Riesling trocken 2012, Rheingau, Germany
Light straw with a greyish hue. Apple aromas initially, before developing more luscious fruit notes over the evening as well as a whiff faintly reminiscent of moisturiser. Apple and white peach flavours with good structure. The acidity is buffered noticeably by a mildly creamy sensation and ever so slightly stoney hints. Otherwise, this is tasty, uncomplicated fare. On the wrong side of 10 euros by some distance, however - which is my only quibble irrespective of how prestigious the producer and vineyards are.

Autumn Austrian

Saturday saw the start of this year's Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) in Basel, Switzerland's oldest fair spanning over 500 years of history. Meanwhile, the local wine fair (Basler Weinmesse) also began, and I for one intend to pay this event a visit over the course of the coming week.

I first acquainted myself with the following wine at Basel's wine fair around seven or eight years ago (I can't remember when exactly). Normally, you can't buy bottles for immediate consumption there, but the man at the stand showing this one for tasting purposes kindly made an exception. What followed, if I recall correctly, was a Riesling-fuelled Saturday evening back at my place.

Fast forward to September 2013 and I spot the 2010 vintage of the same wine lying forlornly with other bin ends in some random wine shop in Basel. My mind immediately wanders through the haze of time back to that day in the mid-Noughties. Despite the years that have passed, the bottle is imminently recognisable on account of its beautiful label. I never made notes on the original wine (2003 or 2004 vintage, most likely), so this has been a long time in coming.

Weingut Jäger, Riesling Smaragd, Ried Achleiten 2010, Wachau, Austria
Greenish straw in appearance. Lovely minerally whiff. Honey, peaches and ripe, red-cheeked apples. Crystalline and highly structured on the palate. Bone dry with ample alcohol, but totally balanced. The acidity is electrifying and will ensure that the wine will stand the test of time. Yet at no stage does it feel harsh. Salty minerals, candied lemon and peaches all the way. The finish is long.

Absolutely top class. What is refreshing is that this wine has not been filled into one of those heavy bottles that are meant to elicit reverence among wine lovers but feel like lead weights when you lift them. There is no point in that anyway when a wine like this speaks for itself.

Malterdinger Riesling

Bernhard Huber is renowned for his Pinots. Riesling might not be the first thing on your radar when you think of him. However, the following wine was mightily impressive.

Weingut Huber, Malterdinger Bienenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken 2009, Baden, Germany
Nice bright yellow straw in appearance. An expressive nose with stone and citrus fruit, then yellower fruit notes gradually taking over proceedings. There is also a whiff that almost reminds me of lacquer (this is more pleasant than it sounds).

Quite a voluptuous body for just 11.5% alcohol. Feels quite "urgent" in the mouth in that a lot is going on here. Definitely in the yellowy apricot camp in terms of fruit. Mineral, herbs, a sweetness than actually isn't sweet but is more of a sensation reflecting the aromatic ripeness of the grapes and the extract that goes with it. The acidity is fresh and pure, but I love the overall succulence. And the finish is long.

Don't be put off by the fact that this is from the Pinot-heavy region of Baden. Based on this, Huber makes cracking Rieslings too.